Why are so many celebs going wild for Maison Margiela's Tabi "cloven hoof" shoes?

One of the newest – and strangest – celeb fashion favorites has actually been a cult classic for years! But what's the story behind the odd-looking Maison Margiela "cloven hoof" shoes?

One of the newest – and strangest – celeb fashion favorites have actually been a cult classic for years, but lately, they've been seen adorning the feet of Hollywood movers and shakers like Zendaya (r.), Ariana Grande (c.), and Miley Cyrus (l.).
One of the newest – and strangest – celeb fashion favorites have actually been a cult classic for years, but lately, they've been seen adorning the feet of Hollywood movers and shakers like Zendaya (r.), Ariana Grande (c.), and Miley Cyrus (l.).  © Collage: ROBYN BECK / AFP & MICHAEL TRAN / AFP + Screenshots/Instagram/@zendaya & @arianagrande

These bizarre shoes have been seen adorning the feet of movers and shakers like Zendaya, Ariana Grande, Miley Cyrus, Dua Lipa, Nick Jonas, Olivia Rodrigo, and more!

Maison Margiela absolutely conquered the 2024 Met Gala with Zendaya's peacock look, Kim Kardashian's silver corset gown, Bad Bunny's princely suit, and Gwendoline Christie's elegant velvet caped number.

Not all of the Margiela outfits appear to have included the fashion house's now-iconic Tabi shoes, but maybe that's just because we couldn't see their feet underneath the dresses!

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The Maison Margiela Instagram account is a never-ending stream of different celebrities rocking the brand on red carpets, magazine covers, or haute couture models showing off their theatrical fashions.

Hollywood has been trying to make Margiela shoes happen since 2019, and it looks like they've finally done it.

Professional fashion sourcer Gab Waller told Fashionista that she didn't get a single request for the cloven hoof shoes from 2019 through 2012, but that interest started to come in 2022 with the Margiela x Reebok collab.

"Although they're trending right now, the style really isn't for everybody – I know from speaking specifically to my clientele that many just wouldn't wear them," Waller said.

"It's the hoof shoe on Facebook. People who are really against them absolutely despise them," fashion archivist Kim Russell also told the publication.

While most comments on Twitter surrounding the shoes are making jokes about the bizarre style, Russell explained, "It only takes one extremely influential person to post an item. Then I know it's game over... if someone like Hailey Bieber or Sofia Richie Grainge wore Tabis, I would definitely reassess."

The inception of the shoes goes back further than you might think, however, with roots all the way to 15th century Japan.

The ancient history of Maison Margiela's Tabi shoes

Atmosphere of Maison Martin Margiela & Relish Tabi Shoe Maker Exhibition at Relish on September 18, 2014 in Washington, DC.
Atmosphere of Maison Martin Margiela & Relish Tabi Shoe Maker Exhibition at Relish on September 18, 2014 in Washington, DC.  © Larry French/Getty Images for Staff USA/AFP Larry French / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / Getty Images via AFP

In Japan's 15th century, split-toe socks were created with cotton imported from China to be worn with traditional thong sandals and kimonos. Over time, these socks, which were worn by the Japanese elite, gained a rubber sole, and so jika-tabi shoes were adopted by the country's blue-collar workers.

Jump forward to 1983 when Antwerp fashion retailers Geert Bruloot and Eddy Michiels opened their Cocodrillo boutique to spotlight unusual pieces to the public. A young designer by the name of Martin Margiela showed them a model of his Tabi shoe, created and named to honor the Japanese shoe tradition while melding it with British masculine leather footwear styles.

The Tabi boot made its first runway appearance in a 1988 Maison Margiela show, where models traipsed through red paint before taking over a runway covered in cotton.

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Geert Bruloot recalls the designer saying, "I thought the audience should notice the new footwear. And what would be more evident than its footprint?" The shoe-stained runway was later crafted into a waistcoat for Margiela's next show.

Since that performance art entry into fashion history, Tabis has become an iconic representation of the brand's identity and a fan-favorite for industry insiders and style provocateurs.

The hoof shoes were reused for early shows because of a lack of budget, but now variations on the distinctive silhouette are a staple of the brand's footwear collections each season.

Several years ago, TikTok discovered Tabis and began posting videos explaining the fascinating history behind the unconventional shoes in a bid to democratize high fashion to the masses. Soon after, different iterations of the cloven hoof shoes began to trickle down to celebrities. Spurred on by this spring's "balletcore" trend and the resurgent appreciation for "ugly shoes," Tabis have boomed in popularity.

Would you give these hoof shoes a chance?

Cover photo: Collage: ROBYN BECK / AFP & MICHAEL TRAN / AFP + Screenshots/Instagram/@zendaya & @arianagrande

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